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20 September 2025

Cahir Castle (9/19)

[Chris]

Just a little heads up that this post is a little nerdy and if you want you can scroll straight down to the photos.

We visited our second castle today, Cahir Castle, about 20 minutes from home. Cahir, the name of the castle and the name of the town, is pronounced "Care." But with a little Colin-Farrell Irish brogue, almost like Cay-yer.

Despite being owned by the same Butler family for 600 years, this castle was quite different from Kilkenny Castle, because that one was converted into a magnificent baroque ducal palace, while this one was preserved as an unadorned military defense post. As impressive as both were, this one appealed to me a little more with my love of the fantasy genre - swords and knights and castles and and seigeworks. Admittedly, the castle was updated a little over time to account for muskets and cannons.

Built on solid rock on an island in a river, it was considered impregnable until the advent of cannons, and it was taken in 1599. 50 years later it also surrendered to Cromwell (/shakes fist) without a fight, but was largely ignored and was re-possessed by the Butlers 1-2 years later.

This picturesque and well-preserved castle has been in a slew of Hollywood movies and TV shows: Excalibur, Barry Lyndon, Green Knight, Last Duel, Braveheart (portcullis audio only), Valhalla, ...

Some fun castle facts (feel free to skip if you just want to jump to the photos):
  • There was a crenelation tax on castles (crenelation is the rectangular up-and-down pattern often found atop castle walls). Crenels = fancier = wealthier = more taxes. We learned yesterday that there was also a "daylight tax" or "window tax" imposed in Ireland, with the same logic.
  • Castles often intentionally have low doorways, especially at the entrance to the castle, because a person bending down is more vulnerable. I'll just say, despite all the warnings and the signs, and the warnings, and the signs, I cracked my noggin on low doorways twice.
  • The goal of round towers was to eliminate corner blind spots
  • Castles are often built with "murder holes" (meurtrière), or small holes in the ceilings of entryways or stairwells such that an archer above could kill someone below without warning.
  • This castle also had a trap at the entrance, where invaders could get stuck between a set of doors, and then executed from above. Even the walls are slanted to maximize damage from dropped objects.
  • Slightly different from murder holes are machicolations, which are hidden/shielded openings at the top of a castle wall that allow the pouring of rocks, fire, scalding sand, or scalding water onto invaders while not exposing yourself to enemy attack (picture below)
  • The arrowslits that you may be familiar with were eventually complemented by musket holes (much smaller). It was interesting how many of the weapon holes are specifically aimed at whoever is knocking on the door. Not unlike a Ring camera. Fun fact: arrowslits were invented in the west by Archimedes.
  • Circular stairways go up clockwise so that someone going up (invading) can't use their right-handed sword, but someone coming down (defending) can.
  • Slightly inconsistent stair heights would be destabilizing for unfamiliar invaders, but familiar for defenders.
  • The largest tower on this castle happened to also be a toilet (garderobe). Soldiers went up to a grate at the top and did their business. Once a year, the cesspit at the bottom of the tower was emptied via a small door. Other garderobes were directed outside the castle walls, or directly into the river.
  • Since people rarely bathed (annually was common), clothes were hung at the top of the toilet tower - the natural gases released, like ammonia, were good at disinfecting the clothes, or at least chasing away the lice and fleas.

https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/cahir-castle/ 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ytj79dCMXDE 

 

Cahir Castle


The portcullis entrance to the keep, with two machicolations (hidden dumping channels) above

Even the bushes are crenelated!

Another machicolation above the courtyard entrance arch.  You can't see this until you are under it.

The trap. If you make it through the portcullis (left) you get stuck at the gate (right) and then the portcullis (solid iron spikes) drops to seal you in, and then there are archers everywhere above you.  

 

Annotated view of some defense mechanisms


A very detailed and animated model of the Seige of 1599

The path down to the well, which was another amazing resource of this castle - infinite water supply by being on the river.

Kate coming up from the well.

Our tour group (and another set of Giant Irish Elk (deer) antlers from 10,000 years ago).  Fun fact: the ornate fireplace on the right is made of styrofoam, and is a prop from the 2021 movie The Last Duel.

Green space outside with white embden geese.

Panorama of the courtyard, but it's less impressive if you can't rotate the image via phone.

How do we get home?  Note all signage in Ireland is in Irish (Gaelic) and English.

19 September 2025

St. Patrick's Well (9/17)


[Chris]

A couple days ago we made a quick excursion to a local site, St. Patrick's Well, only about 10 minutes from our place.  It's a natural spring, or holy well, that marks one of the areas where St. Patrick baptized people around 1600 years ago.  We were delighted to meet David, who is the local elderly caretaker who stops by to greet people (we learned that he bikes in every day from across town).  Since we were the only ones there when he showed up, we got to hear his stories for a good 30 minutes.

The water is believed to have healing powers, so we all drank from the spring (many locals bring gallon jugs to collect it) and we did the "pilgrimage" out to the cross in the middle of the pond, where we walked thrice around clockwise.  There are enough pilgrims that the algae doesn't grow along the path.  [update 48 hours later: drinking the water may not have been the wisest decision]

This well, one of the largest spring wells in Ireland, has been a gathering point for humans for over 8000 years, long before the Christian era. 

Side note, this was day 7 of our visit, and the first not to have any rain (or any that we noticed on our excursion anyway). 

Textures

The walk down

St. Patrick

The spring/well

The church onsite, built about 500 years ago.

The legend, David, telling us about this casket from 1623.

The inside of the church.  The roof was burned down by Oliver Cromwell, "who did more damage to Ireland in 8 years than England has done in all of history," according to David.  Wikipedia confirms that 20% of the Irish population died during this decade.

Textures

Making the pilgrimage around the cross.  The painful rocks underfoot are part of the sacrifice.

Kate drinking the healing water from the well

Filling bottles

Saying goodbye

If you want to read more.



 

18 September 2025

Kilkenny (9/13)


[Chris] 

On Saturday, we decided to wake up at 6:30 am (1:30 am to our bodies) and drive to Kilkenny for our first "Adventure".  It's about an hour away and is considered THE medieval town of Ireland due to its historic castle. We chose this day because it was also the day of the annual Medieval Marathon, which complicated driving a bit, but it was also our first chance using the Irish parking app!

Things we saw in town:

  • the river and marathon/10k
  • the most amazing rainbow welcoming us to Ireland
  • some charity shops (thrift stores)
  • the Black Abbey (actual mass started while we were there, maybe the largest stain glass in Ireland)
  • Southwicks brewery (we declined the tour)
  • lunch at a gas station (long story, but it was delicious!) 
  • the Round Tower at St. Canice's Cathedral (maybe the tallest tower in Ireland, maybe the oldest tower in Ireland, something superlative)
  • the Butler House gardens 
  • the Butler Gallery (art museum) 
  • the castle rose garden
  • the castle lawn
  • and of course THE KILKENNY CASTLE.  We picked up a family pass for Irish historical sites which should more than pay for itself over our time here.   Our guide Mary was amazing, and we learned a lot about castles, their frequent turnover and renovations, and their decay and restoration.

Butler is the family that owned the castle for its final 600 years.  Interestingly the patriarch of that family was the butler to the king, so the king changed their name from Fitzgerald to Butler.  You can read more here if you are interested:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilkenny_Castle

 
We have arrived!

River, back side of castle, and marathon runners along the esplanade


Flowers along the river

A different Sam's Club?

The view of the Round Tower from the bottom.  The space to climb 100m was claustrophobic.

The view from the top

Me waving to Sam

The well-known Irish Cross

Medieval!
Butler Gallery. There were 200 of these blocks, each painted with a microscopic view of a major world city (approx one per country).

A lot to see!

Butler House gardens
 
A neat tree in the woods by the castle lawn

Lily teaching chess after a drizzle darkened the board appropriately

View from the Rose Garden

In the underground chambers, which are the only part of the castle that were not updated by various owners over the past 700 years.  The top of the chamber is "wattle and daub" (sticks and mud) construction which apparently is strong enough to support solid stone above it.
 
Very ornate
Giant Irish Elk horns (long extinct, these were unearthed, not hunted).  The largest deer to ever live.  
"Chinese" was the fashion of the day, very exotic.  This room only has part of the original wall paper (in color), the rest was more recently hand drawn to complete it.  
I think this was a table offered in peace with engravings of England, Scotland, and Ireland.
Another impressive room, just can't be captured on camera.

These shields were used to protect the faces of sitting women from the heat of the fire, which would melt their make up.  I will add this to my radiation heat transfer lectures.  Apparently this is the origin of the phrases "Save face" and "Have a melt down" although the internet disagrees. 
There were 7 giant tapestries

I think this bed was when the Queen came to visit

A massive art hall was the end of the tour